Pesona Adenium yang menggema

[quin2007]

Enviroment:
Adeniums grow best under warm, moist and sunny conditions.
TEMPERATURE: There doesn't seem to be a problem at all with high temperature, especially with a concurrent increase in humidity. We typically reach 42 deg C in summer and have kept Adeniums even higher when under low poly without any problems. The flowers will, however, age faster under hot conditions. Reds especially tend to fade rapidly. When combined with low humidity, petal edges may scorch.(we now select for fading and scorch resistant Reds). On the lower side, we get down to an absolute minimum of about 6 deg C at night in winter but days are still warm. For cultivation in temperate countries, a safe minimum should be 10 deg C.
HUMIDITY: Adeniums love high humidity and are at their best during the rains (but protected by plastic cover). They can, however, take low humidity easily and also a certain amount of arid conditions. We have noticed, however, that the variation in flower color etc between clones reduces markedly under dry conditions. Thus we noticed much more variation when plants were grown in coastal Bombay as compared to our present inland location. Humidity is relatively easy to increase so we don't have so much of a problem now as all plants are grown under plastic.
SUNLIGHT: Under most conditions, especially with adequate humidity, Adeniums will take and appreciate as much sun as possible. However, under our very hot summers with low humidity, they prefer shading compound on the plastic-the plastic and the compound probably cut off 25-30% of the intense sun. Under full, hot sun the exposed caudex will sometimes burn if the leaf canopy does not shade it.

The plastic above our Adeniums is sprayed with lime during the summer to reduce both, light intensity and heat. The rains slowly wash away the lime, allowing maximum light in during the cloudy monsoon period.

Also some of the really white variegated Adeniums will scorch under very high light levels and need a little extra shade. To flower well, most Adenium cultivars need at least 4-5 hours of direct sun daily, with bright light during the rest of the day. Such conditions are easily provided in a balcony and outside or just inside an East, West or South facing window. Given less light most will still flower but less frequently and with fewer flowers.
RAIN: A little rain is fine and indeed invigorating for Adeniums. In Bangkok, which gets frequent afternoon showers, Adeniums are grown in the open all year with good results. In Taiwan and with us, however, the monsoon season with continuous rain for days on end will play havoc with Adeniums and leaf and stem as well as caudex rot is frequent. We therefore now grow almost all plants under simple plastic structures which mainly protect plants against the rains.
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Nutrition:
The secret to Adenium nutrition is little & often. Because the plant, given ideal conditions, can grow surprisingly fast, it can utilize a lot of nitrogen and other nutrients. On the other hand, excessively fast growth is soft and susceptible to rot as well as aesthetically unappealing.
My policy with Adenium nutrition is to follow the plant's lead: maintain a low but constant level of basal nutrition and feed extra when the plant is going into a growth spurt. How much and what we give in this extra feed depends on many factors such as media, season as well as our aims regarding that plant: a variety that we are bulking up on and rapidly propagating will get much higher levels of feed than one being grown as a flowering pot plant. Similarly, heavily bearing mother plants require high levels of specific nutrients to give the best seeds.
Fertilizer Suggestions:
The following is our way of feeding our Adeniums and is reasonably successful. No doubt it can be improved upon and we ourselves keep trying to get better results all the time. Also note that it works with our media, under our conditions and with our systems and would need to be modified for other situations. A more detailed article on plant nutrition FERTILIZING POT PLANTS can be viewed at www.hoscoindia.com. For details on nutritional problems, see NUTRITIONAL PROBLEMS.
Organic Slow Release:
Since we start with a low nutrient media and do not add a nutrient charge to it, we need a source of slow release fertilizer. The various coated materials like Osmocote etc are either not available here or are too costly. What we use, with surprisingly good results is pelleted chicken manure. A table spoonful or two as a topdressing perks up the plants no end. A small amount is added to the media as well while mixing.

Pelleted chicken manure is commonly used as a top dressing in Taiwan. The growers assured me that no chemical (inorganic) fertilizer is used at all.

I saw this being used in Taiwan where it's used exclusively by some of the best growers and their media is almost all stone chips.
Chemical Fertilizers:
We now use a complete liquid fertilizer containing all Macronutrients (Nitrogen, Phosphorus, Potassium, Calcium, Magnesium and Sulphur) as well as all Micronutrients (Iron, Manganese, Copper, Zinc, Boron and Molybdenum). This is used at alternate watering at an EC of 1.5mS/cm and is giving us better results than our old system of using only Calcium and Potassium nitrate in the liquid feed. The exact ratios of the nutrients can be varied and we are juggling them to find the best combinations for our conditions. This would also depend on the growth stage and season.
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Pruning:
One of the least common cultural practices for Adeniums must be pruning- most growers will never prune. There is some merit to this when growing species and under conditions that limit growth. Under good conditions however, Adeniums will make progressively longer stems with poor flowering. Adeniums respond to pruning in the following situations:

Pinching Seedlings: Seedling plants are often pinched to get a well branched plant. This must be done during periods of vigorous growth or only one bud will sprout, taking you back to where you started.

Adenium arabicum seedlings with terminal growth pinched: this was a trial to see what kind of form this type of pruning gives. These seedlings show multiple sprouts about 45 days after the snip.

Done at the correct time this is a useful technique but can sometimes result in a large number of tiny axillary sprouts which look unnatural.

A case where pruning has gone wrong: after the main stem was cut back the plant sprouted over 10 stems, giving, in my opinion, an unacceptable form for an Adenium.

Rejuvenation: Old plants with overly long, leafless stems can be pruned back in spring to improve and invigorate the plant and promote new growth which will bear flowers. Ideally combine this with repotting into fresh media.

Our specimen plant material is pruned hard every two years.

Flower initiation: One of the surest ways to induce bloom in grafted Adeniums is to prune them hard: new growth will bear flowers, especially under cool short day conditions.

Grafted plants pruned back to one inch stubs (left). These sprout vigorously after about 45 days under good conditions. In summer the flowering may be delayed and sparse but under cool conditions the stems will all bear flowers before long.

With experience it is possible to time the pruning to get massive bloom at a particular time, for example flower shows. The Thai's are experts at this and superb plants in spectacular bloom can be seen at their shows in Dec and Feb.

Two specimen plants at the December show in Bangkok: pruned hard about three months earlier, they are in spectacular bloom in time for the show.

Root Pruning: With time Adeniums develop a very massive root system with thickened secondary roots. When transplanting, it is often necessary to cut off these roots at their junction with the caudex to make it easier to get the plant into the new container and to give some space to get at least a reasonable amount of media into the pots.
Disease control: Very thick growth is best thinned before the monsoon- water & moisture collection can lead to rot. Despite all precautions, Adeniums will sometimes rot. If this happens to one of the smaller stems, it is often best to prune off the diseased portions- I generally like to prune to the nearest main stem or trunk so no stub is left.
This is not as straight forward as it seems. Check the cut to make sure its white: any black discoloration means the pathogen has reached the cut area and you need to go down still further.

Cut end of an Adenium plant showing just a small discolored sector at 11 o'clock but this will spread unless the stem is re-cut at a lower level where there is no sign of disease and the stem section is clean and white.

The knife or other cutting tool is also contaminated so make sure it is sterilized to prevent the second cut from getting infected.
Healthy plants that develop stem rot will often heal themselves: the infected portion can be seen as a yellow or blackish zone with a distinct border from where healthy tissue starts. Gently try and snap off the dead portion- if an abscission zone has been formed already, it will come off, leaving a clean white healthy stub at the other end. If not, try again after a few days. If the diseased end is mushy, the skin is best pulled off to allow the inner portion to dry rapidly, after which it should come off with little effort. (see Adenium Problems for details and photographs) Pest Control and Annual Pruning:
For plants that are already tall enough, it is a good idea to prune annually or at least every two years. A certain amount of thinning to remove weak, damaged or inward growing stems can be done at the same time. Apart from the advantage of producing fresh new growth that will flower, this procedure will remove two of the most persistent pests of Adeniums: spider mites and mealy bugs, both of which are concentrated at the growing end amongst the leaves.

[quin2007]

[quin2007]

[quin2007]

[medanmania]

ADENIUM ARABICUM Harga Benih Adenium Arabicum (Benih Import Thailand) Benih per Paket Isi Harga (Rp) 15 95.000,- 50 300.000,- 100 500.000,- 500 2.000.000,-

ADENIUM SOMALENSE Harga Benih Adenium Somalense (Benih Import Thailand) Benih per Paket Isi Harga (Rp) 15 95.000,- 50 280.000,- 100 470.000,-

ADENIUM OBESUM Harga Benih Adenium Obesum (Benih Import Thailand) Benih per Paket Isi Harga (Rp) 100 95.000,- 200 180.000,- 500 400.000,- 1000 750.000,-

*) Dalam 1 paket berisi benih dengan warna bunga campur, terdiri dari beberapa warna bunga. Kami tidak dapat menentukan warna bunga dalam 1 paket karena penyilangan bunga terjadi secara alami.

[tamanbunganet]

salam kenal buat yang buat posting aku adalah pencinta tanaman hias pemula tapi ingin serius menekuni bidang ini karena telah saya coba ternyata sangat menarik saya ada pertanyaan nich dimana saya bisa beli bibit adenium saya ingin coba tanam,dan bagaimana cara pembayaranya thank,s

[Wylie]

Bro N sis salam kenal ya saya member baru di sini, salah satu penggemar adenium khususnya arabicum yg masih baru, mohon bimbingannya

[beoleo]

Asli benar2 tumbuhan yg indah banget, tapi sayangnya saya gak punya tempat buat tumbuhan yg sebesar ini.
hehehhe.......